Glued wingtip in place

Today I got the end nose rib notched and the wingtip glued in place. I have the blocking at the spar tips and nose rib, but will still need to block and shape the trailing edge as well as gluing in the plywood gussets. Still, it feels good to have the wingtip on. It looks more like a wing!

I also trimmed the CW36 pieces. These go on the ribs just outside the aileron bay and hold the torque tube support bushings. As supplied they were about 3/8 too long for the inboard side, and 7/16 for the outboard side where there’s an additional thickness of plywood where the wingtip spar web overlaps. For this I just set the miter gauge on the table saw to match the angle of the piece, then set the table saw to cut off the length needed. I won’t glue those two pieces in place until after I have the rest of the aileron structure built up.

CAW2 brackets

Over the past couple of days I’ve gotten all 14 of the CAW2 brackets shaped. I had drilled all of them already, but the ends needed to be rounded off. One end of each will be hidden inside the wing, but some will have one end exposed so I wanted them looking decent.

I designed a radius guide to help with the bandsaw and sander. It’s just a 1″ diameter disk, with a short 1/4″ button on the center of one face. Stick the button into the hole on one end of the bracket, and the guide is there to show a 1/2″ radius all the way around. My original idea was to use them to scribe a line to follow when finishing the ends. I had 3D printed a couple of them, and found it was just as easy to just leave it in place and work around the edge. Inevitably, of course, you end up nicking one so I printed up a batch of 9 more. I used 3 of them to finish off the CAW2 brackets.

Given that there are a bunch of other brackets to finish, I’ll definitely try the scribed line approach as well. Overall, though, I’m pleased with the results. I used the bandsaw to lop off the corners, then shaped the ends with a disc sander and finished them on a Scotch-Brite wheel. I had planned to paint them, but I may not. I’ve still got a batch of metal etch and Alodine (Bonderite 1201, to be precise), so if it still works I’d like to just give them a conversion coating that weighs nothing; that way they are protected from corrosion but only the exposed parts get paint. I’ll probably try a test piece to see if the Alodine still works; if not, I’ll get some self-etching primer and use that instead.