Tag: Ailerons

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Wing work through 2/26

Mostly small things over the past week. I cut and installed some more corner blocking that I didn’t get done before, tested a couple new iterations of the bearing block/spacer, and fine tuned the aileron to the opening. Along the way I’ve noted a few new lessons learned…

  • Never trust the plans, or the supplemental sheets included with them. They’re often inaccurate. Like the AL bracket diagrams that call out 3/16″ holes when they will get 1/4″ AN4 bolts… and on and on.
  • Get the torque tubes in place, holes moved or enlarged where needed, and bearing blocks in place and holes drilled before cutting the ailerons from the wing. Otherwise it’s just a bitch getting everything aligned after the fact to locate the bearing blocks. This of course goes along with correcting all of the many problems with the holes that are pre-drilled in those plywood parts.
  • Make sure all of the corner blocking is installed around the aileron bay as early as possible, and certainly before installing the CW40 plywood stiffeners, aileron leading edge skin, and so on.
  • Go over the plan sheet more often and in greater detail to make sure I don’t miss anything that will be a pain to install later on… like corner blocking that would be much easier to plane or sand to shape than to try to cut to match odd angles.
  • Install the compression struts before the geodetics! That cost a couple hours of added time working through tight openings.

Not necessarily a “lesson learned”, but something I’d like to explore. All of the ribs ended up needing a 1/8 shim between the top rib cap and the main spar. Rather than shim them with separate pieces, I want to see if I can maybe cut and install the geodetics at the same time the ribs are glued, or something. Or possibly just use temporary shims, and glue the top cap to the spar as the geodetics are installed. It could lead to neater and better construction.

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Wing work thru 2/20

Top and bottom leading edge plywood has been scalloped. That wasn’t as big a chore as I thought it would be. We used a thin stainless scale to establish a curve between each pair of ribs, marked along it with a pencil, and cut the wood with a utility knife. Some cleanup with sandpaper and Bob’s your uncle.

I’ve made a few iterations of the bearing block. Today I’ll print a couple more test pieces and I think I’ll be done. They fit great, the aileron is very well located, all in all I think it’s a lot more precise than a piece of plywood and a chunk of PVC pipe.

I’ve been preparing some of the wing attachment fittings. I have one or two of each part drilled with 1/8 pilot holes; I’ll use those to match drill the rest, then enlarge the holes for the AN4 bolts. The biggest question was hot wo round off the ends. For that I drilled a 1/8 hole exactly 1/2 inch from the disk on my disc/belt sander. Now I can use the tail end of a drill bit as a pivot pin and put a nice radius on the end of the fitting. I’m glad I kept my gray Scotch-Brite wheel on the bench polisher; it makes quick work of cleaning up the ends of the AL bars.

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Wing work – 2/16, and a better idea

Yesterday (2/16) I cut and glued in some corner blocking I had missed on each end of the aileron and the ends of the aileron bay. Lesson learned: that would have been a lot easier had I done it before the geodetic bits and plywood stiffeners had been installed.

I’m getting to the point where I kind of need the torque tube bearing blocks installed. Then there are the 3/8” spacers, which the plans call out as pieces of PVC pipe. I figure, since I’m going to CNC machine the bearing blocks anyway, why not just make those and the spacers one piece? I pulled up the design in OpenSCAD and added the spacer. I gave it a slightly larger ID than the bearing block so it doesn’t add drag to the aileron control. I 3D printed a couple samples to use for fit & function testing. If that goes as expected I’ll get a chunk of 1” UHMW and pass the design file to Stew for machining. I’d planned to use some 1/2” UHMW I have for the bearing blocks, but I’ll keep that for now and use it for something else.

3D printed test part. It’s difficult to see but there’s a step in the bore for the torque tube.

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Wing work 2/15/24

Got the lower leading edge of the aileron rounded off, and the beveled strip glued to the bottom of the aileron bay. Once that glue had cured, I’ll be able to check the clearance on the down travel and see if any further rounding off is needed. We used a 3/8” radius bit in a router to cut to shape, then cleaned up the edges with a DA sander.

Radius on aileron leading edge
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Wing work 2/10/24

This covers a couple days’ work. Yesterday we ripped the CW37 aileron bay TE stock down to 1/4” and I got that installed. Today I’ll glue in the triangular support pieces. And yes, I realized after cutting and gluing it all up that the CW37 piece is supposed to be notched for the rib caps. I’ll remember that for the next time.

I continue to be astonished at how light and strong this wing is. I can easily lift it off the bench and move it around; it can’t weigh more than 20-25# without the aileron installed.

The last thing that was really bugging me about the aileron was that the lower edge of the leading edge plywood still wasn’t glued down. I’ve got to find a better way on the next aileron, but this one had to be done so we can radius the lower edge.

Stew’s idea was to make a grooved board for the trailing edge and use that to clamp a board across the leading edge while the glue sets. He used a length of scrap cedar with a groove cut to match the angle of the TE, and we used four bar clamps to apply pressure. In hindsight – I honestly don’t know if just putting a radius on the front corner and wrapping plywood around it would be better or not. We’ll see how this works out.

In other news, Stew has his 4’ CNC machine in and working, and I’m going to put him to work cutting my torque tube bearing blocks out of some UHMWPE stock I have. Better than plywood, I think.

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Aileron progress

It’s been an on-and-off couple of weeks. I’ve had a persistent cold/bronchitis that has kept me away from the shop for days at a time. On days I do feel like working, I’ve got a house cleanup project that’s been sucking time as well.

This evening I got over to have a look at the aileron. I’m not thrilled with the plywood, to be perfectly honest, but I believe it will be OK. I re-glued a couple of the geodetic braces and glued down a couple of corners of the thin plywood that were loos and/or slightly de-laminating. I think the fabric would probably have been sufficient, but I want to make things as close to perfect as practical. I’ve got a list of things to do differently on the next three ailerons.

I got a few corner blocks installed to make sure the plywood stiffeners don’t flex or bow. The pans don’t call for them, but I’ll feel better knowing they’re there. I also got the ends of the aileron nose plywood trimmed and sanded flush with the ends of the aileron. There’s one more round of gluing to do, then I can use a router to put a radius on the lower front edge and it will be done. I did check the aileron travel; 22 degrees up and down will not be a problem.

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Returning to work

It’s been a bit since my last update here. In the past couple of weeks we took a nice cruise vacation, and I developed a pretty severe case of bronchitis. It’s possible these two things are not unrelated; one of the risks you take to get a little Caribbean sun and salt air in the middle of winter, I guess!

I’ve been working to get the leading edge of the aileron wrapped with plywood. Honestly, at this point I can understand how someone would make the decision to scrap an aileron and start from scratch. I don’t think I’ll go quite that far, but there have been challenges. I’m adding to my “lessons learned” for the next three ailerons, that’s for sure. Part of it is just developing a process to get the ply to wrap over the pretty sharply curved top surface. This part I solved with a couple pieces of Styrofoam and some dumbbells, to effectively clamp the aileron to the bench with the ply trapped underneath. That should hopefully take care of the upper portion. The bottom edge of the top piece of ply isn’t yet glued to the structure, so I’ll have to figure that out today.

I’m really looking forward to building the next wing. I’ve learned so much while building this one that I’m pretty sure the next will take a lot less time, although I’ll have to figure out the wing walk on the next one. I talked to a guy building an RS-80 Tiger Moth the other day. He told me about improvements he’s made to his wing walk to avoid seeing the wing deflect when someone steps onto it. I’m not sure how much I’ll be able to do on mine, but he’s using carbon fiber in a substantial number of places on his build. Honestly, the wing walk is one area where I was thinking I would need to beef things up a little anyway… if you’ve met me you’ll understand why.

But, of course the devil is in the details. Every time I think I’m almost finished with this wing I am reminded of all the detail work that has yet to be done. I need to cut and install all of the bushings for the bolts; finish cutting, shaping, and drilling the various aluminum mounting brackets; cut and finish the scallops in the leading edge plywood; figure out and build the transition from leading edge to wingtip bow (most likely foam)… there’s a lot of stuff left to do, but fortunately it’s really only a few days’ work.

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Aileron progress

Building this aileron has definitely been a learning experience. Some things that I didn’t think would make a big difference early on in the process have come back to haunt me… and of course I’ve learned how the whole thing goes together, which isn’t always 100% clear when comparing the plans to the parts received in the kit. The end result will be fine, but the next three will be a lot less hassle to build.

Lessons learned: All of the plywood bits need to align perfectly with each other and with the wing ribs. That means CW36 needs to be shortened and the hole moved, and CW35 needs the hole moved. I will also pay more attention to getting the aileron spars perfectly flush with the rib caps — otherwise there’s planing and sanding to be done. Ditto for the stringer on the leading edge; I’ll want to make sure the notches I cut for that are exactly the correct depth.

As my CW35 pieces were about 3/16″ high on each end, I glued a couple strips of the 1/8 lamination stock along the bottom edge to fill the gap. Once that was dry I planed and sanded to match the profile of the ribs. I had to sand the top down to match the ribs and CW34 contour, and finish getting the bottom of the spar flush with the ribs. There wasn’t much hanging down, but it was still fussy work. With that done I was able to glue the bottom layer of plywood to the aileron. Once that’s dry I can go to work on the rest of the plywood — of course the angle cut in the spruce piece at the bottom of the aileron doesn’t match the angle of the CW34/35 plywood pieces, so I’ll just have to sand a good profile for a smooth transition. Then I’ll be able to figure out the rest of the aileron bay.

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Opening 2024 with an aileron

Today I hit a pretty cool milestone – I cut the first aileron free from the first wing! Pretty jazzed about that. I trimmed up the rib cap ends as much as I needed to, and glued on the lower aileron spar and the upper stringer. Lessons learned here:

  • The CW36 pieces (aileron bay end plates that hold the torque tube bearings) did indeed have the holes drilled about 1/8 or 3/16 forward of where they needed to be. Not a big deal, since those will get UHMW bearings attached to them. I did a little cutting and some sanding with a 3/4″ spindle sander drum (hand held) to get them where they needed to be.
  • The CW35 pieces (aileron end plates) have the holes drilled about 3/16″ below where they needed to be. I didn’t realize at the time exactly how the whole assembly goes together, but now I do. What this means is that CW35 on each end is too high to match the profile of the ribs. The top will need to be very carefully marked and cut or sanded to match the rib caps, and the bottom will need to be filled with some spruce or pine scrap. Lesson learned; for the other three wings I’ll re-cut those holes to match the holes in the CW34 pieces. I’ll do that by gluing up the CW34/CW35 stack with the profiles aligned; once dry I’ll use the spindle sander with a 3/4″ spindle to make the hole in CW35 match those in CW34.

The next issue to deal with will be the thickness of the CW37 pieces. The plans clearly show it as 1/4″ thick, but the supplied stock is 1/2″ thick. It’s used on the top and bottom of the aileron bay. Once I have the aileron completed – CW35 bits corrected and plywood attached – I’ll need to install the aileron with the torque tube in place and figure out exactly how to finish out the aileron bay.

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Closing out 2023

You think you’re about ready to perform some major step, then you step back and realize you’re not as close as you thought… I thought I was about ready to cut out the aileron, but I still had to get the bottom geodetic braces in as well as several of the plywood stiffening strips that keep the aileron bay and aileron from distorting when the fabric gets shrunk around it. Today I did that, I also got the leading edge plywood wrapped around the rest of the way and glued and clamped in place, and added the last of the wingtip reinforcements along with the gussets for all of those.

I started to shoot primer on the torque tube, but the can stopped spraying about halfway through. Super frustrating, as it’s a full can, It’s been in a cabinet in the garage for a while, so I suspect there was a chunk of unmixed solid that lodged in the valve or something. The spray tip is clear, the can is pressurized, but it refuses to spray. Bummer. I found a can of self-etch primer in another cabinet at home, so hopefully that works. I may end up with a torque tube that’s half gray and half white… oh well.

I’ve been cleaning up the Airpath compass while I wait for the new gaskets and diaphragm from Spruce. This one has a light and I didn’t want to use the incandescent bulb, and I’d already broken one of the wires anyway… so that path was blocked. I had ordered some LED bulbs from Amazon – they are commonly known as type 74 LED bulbs. The spec sheet showed they are about 0.7″ long and 0.23″ diameter. Those arrived today, and they do fit inside the bulb socket. I soldered the wires onto the new LED assembly “backwards”, or with the wires running along the body of the light so the tip goes in first and the connector end faces outward. This puts one of the three chip LEDs directly over the little red window that illuminates the compass. I had to remove about 1mm of the tail end of the lamp assembly so the little cover would close, but with that done it’s near perfect. I’ll get more pictures as soon as the paint I used to touch up the worn spots on the lamp cover is dry. The gaskets are supposed to be here on Tuesday, and I’ve got a can of mineral spirits I can use to fill it… not being willing to spend the extra money on UPS shipping for a pint or so of “compass fluid”, which from what I can tell is basically… mineral spirits.