Getting the CW35 aileron nose ribs located perfectly in the aileron is critical to making sure the aileron is straight and consistent with the other wing. Today I slid the torque tube into place and checked the fit of all the pieces that I can at this point. After making some adjustments to the holes in the CW36 end plates, I glued the three CW35s in place in the middle of the aileron. The next step will require cutting the trailing edge to install the aileron end caps, so I want to make sure the torque tube location is easily and consistently reproducible.
I think at this point I may just bolt the torque tube bearings in place (I have a set of 3D printed temporary pieces) and cut the last piece of AL tubing in half. This will let me work with a much shorter and easier to handle piece of tubing while setting up the ailerons.
Today I got the aileron spar web cut and glued in, along with the top pieces of 1/4″ spar cap. I couldn’t get to the bottom side to clamp those pieces without some significant effort, so I left those for the next session. I also got the CW32 pieces cut and sanded to fit between the rib caps. I trimmed and clamped the CW36 and CW34 pieces in place to locate the aileron torque tube, then marked the CW32 pieces for the holes that will need to be drilled for the torque tube.
The wingtip is nice and solidly in place, so now I just need to sand the blocking and trailing edge flush so I can start installing the gussets and additional bracing.
This time around I plan to NOT screw up the same way I did the first aileron, by assuming that the holes in ANY of the parts are drilled in the proper place. As I did before, I’ll index everything off of the CW34 parts, using those to locate the torque tube, and drill or sand everything else to match them. And of course I’ve already 3D printed a pair of torque tube bearing blocks for this wing. The final parts will be milled out of UHMW or something similar, not 3D printed, but these are great for getting all the holes located without the risk of messing up a flight part.
The more I use it, the more I like my little razor plane. This thing was bought back in the 70s, I think, by my father for use on R/C airplanes that we (mostly he) built in our basement, usually from scratch. It’s a plastic body with a blade that resembled a heavy duty, oversized razor blade. The key thing I found was to use light passes, and hold the plane at an angle to the wood. It’s quite effective for shaving down spruce, plywood, and even the odd bit of end grain. It’s usually quicker than sanding.
Over the past couple of days I’ve gotten all 14 of the CAW2 brackets shaped. I had drilled all of them already, but the ends needed to be rounded off. One end of each will be hidden inside the wing, but some will have one end exposed so I wanted them looking decent.
I designed a radius guide to help with the bandsaw and sander. It’s just a 1″ diameter disk, with a short 1/4″ button on the center of one face. Stick the button into the hole on one end of the bracket, and the guide is there to show a 1/2″ radius all the way around. My original idea was to use them to scribe a line to follow when finishing the ends. I had 3D printed a couple of them, and found it was just as easy to just leave it in place and work around the edge. Inevitably, of course, you end up nicking one so I printed up a batch of 9 more. I used 3 of them to finish off the CAW2 brackets.
Given that there are a bunch of other brackets to finish, I’ll definitely try the scribed line approach as well. Overall, though, I’m pleased with the results. I used the bandsaw to lop off the corners, then shaped the ends with a disc sander and finished them on a Scotch-Brite wheel. I had planned to paint them, but I may not. I’ve still got a batch of metal etch and Alodine (Bonderite 1201, to be precise), so if it still works I’d like to just give them a conversion coating that weighs nothing; that way they are protected from corrosion but only the exposed parts get paint. I’ll probably try a test piece to see if the Alodine still works; if not, I’ll get some self-etching primer and use that instead.
