Tag: Tools

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Boy, I’m bushed!

Today I took the wing brackets over to the shop, sorted them all out, and re-marked them so I could tell one part from the other. There are seven (I think) different bracket types. The acid etch solution had removed all of the markings, along with other stuff.

I sorted out which brackets are needed for the right lower wing that’s on the bench, and checked all of the bolt sizes for proper fit. All are acceptable, if not perfect. I have AN4-24A bolts (1-15/16″ grip length) for the main spar root attachment brackets; I could have used AN4-23A (1-13/16″ grip length). It’s not a problem; a couple of AN960 washers do the trick and are a perfectly acceptable solution. On the rear spar N-strut (outer end) brackets, the AN4-16A bolts are a tad long; I could have used -15A. Two AN960 and one AN960L are fine. As a mental exercise I calculated the weight savings if I ordered the shorter bolts. The shorter bolts would weigh about half an ounce less (total per wing); the washers would bring that up to just a smidge over half an ounce — .53 ounce, or about 15 grams per wing. I can live with that.

But I digress. I got all the remaining bushings cut. Once I wrapped my head around that fact that the bushings do not need to be cosmetically and dimensionally perfect, but just need to be “flush or slightly below” the face of the wood per the plans, things went a little quicker. I pulled the 24 tooth per inch metal blade from my bandsaw and replaced it with a 10 TPI wood blade, which is fine for thin wall AL tubing like this. I set up the miter gauge and fence for the length I wanted. The tubing cut-off end was snagging the blade teeth; Stew suggested a spacer on the rip fence that extends just shy of the blade. That did the trick! Now the cut-offs roll out of the way. I cut one piece and tested for fit in the hole; once that was verified I was able to set the fence once and cut as many pieces of each diameter tube as I needed. Easy peasy. That will save hours of build time.

Now I need some etching primer for the brackets, and spar urethane for the wood, and I can get everything installed and call this wing done.

Oh, after I cut the bracket for the aileron connecting rod.

And get the bearing block holes drilled.

And… whatever else I’ve forgotten.

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Bushings

On Wednesday I went over and tried cutting some of the bushings used for the bolts that hold the brackets to the wing.

I’ve cut a couple with a chop saw, but one got away and ruined a saw blade and almost took my thumb off. I think I could fix that problem, but after ruining one nice Freud carbide blade I’m not really inclined to pursue that method again. I’ve been using my small (9″) band saw with a metal cutting blade, and it’s been a bit of a struggle. I’ve had no success getting the miter slot aligned to the blade, so I made a custom miter gauge with a slight angle to get straight cuts. I wrapped masking tape around one end and made test cuts until I got a square cut. After cutting, I typically need to take a few thousandths off with sandpaper before I get the correct length.

Until now I’ve been scribing a line with a micrometer and following that with the blade. I think I’m going to switch to clamping a fence down on the table and using that for repeatability. I have three sizes of tubing — 5/8, 1/2, and 3/8 OD. Bushings are made with one, two, or three pieces of tubing nested together, so I need to cut identical length pieces. The 1/2 and 5/8 tubing is a snug enough fit that I can cut them together, but the 3/8 OD is not a snug fit, so I end up having to cut that separately or it spins and moves out of position. I’m going to just try a different approach, as making these bushings is taking forever.

I’ve been using a 1/2″ wide, 24 TPI metal cutting blade on the saw. I think it’s too fine for the AL tubing; I’m going to try a different blade. Of course I’ll have to order it. I have the 24 TPI, as well as 6 and 10 TPI wood cutting blades. I think I want to try 14 TPI.

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Some detail work

So many little things left to do. Today I made a little jig to mark the leading edge plywood for the depth of the scallops that need to be cut, and marked the center of each bay. I did some sanding on the wing walk to bring the rib caps down flush with the plywood skin — it’s not much to remove, just a few thousandths, but I want it smooth. I glued the LE plywood to the wing walk plywood, since that hadn’t gotten clamped well enough and the edge was loose. I’ll sand a tapered transition on that later.

I’ve got a dozen or two micro pins that I tried to use to stick down some 1/8 spruce to hold down the leading edge plywood. That failed, leaving the pins sticking out, They need to be driven in so they’re below the surface, so I got a few of those done with a center punch. I have a small pin punch I’ll use to do the rest tomorrow when I get back at it.

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Finishing out the aileron bay

Last session I cut and sanded everything to get the top of the aileron bay closed out. Well, not everything; after gluing in the CW37 piece I realized that there were some additional supports I hadn’t cut. As I was running short on time, though, I had to leave them for another day.

The fun part (and it actually was kind of fun) was cutting notches in CW37 for the ends of the rib caps. After marking the location of both sides of each rib. I cut a shallow slot with he razor saw, then used an X-Acto knife to gradually fit the depth of the notch to fit. In the end I got it in and clamped, then had to leave.

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On a roll!

Today I did some work with the razor plane and a new sanding block to get the aileron spar and other bits to their final dimensions. I got the top side geodetic braces cut and glued in place on the aileron. Then I glued the lower aileron nose skin in place – the aileron now has, I think, the maximum possible number of clamps on it.

With that done, I got the blocking sanded down on the wingtip bow supports, and cut and glued the top gussets in place. Only eight clamps there, but I think it’s still feeling the love.

And if you’re a Star Trek: Voyager fan, this makes Seven of Nine days in September that I’ve worked on the plane.

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Wing walk extension

This morning I went over to check on the work I did yesterday. The main portion of the walk structure looks good. I still needed to get the extension (front portion) ready for the skin.

The center plywood support is glued to the first false rib, but of course the plywood skin sits between the ribs. That meant I needed to shave about 1/8″ from the top cap of the false rib. I used the razor plane for most of this work but needed to use a file for some of it like the front edge. I cut the cross supports and used them to gauge whether the top of the middle support/rib was level with the other two. In the end I used a DA sander to “fine tune” the high spots until it was all level.

I also wanted to make sure the front and back edges of the thin plywood are fully supported and level with the thicker ply on the rear portion of the walk. I ended up just cutting a couple of support strips to attach to the top of the spar; I use da cutoff scrap of the wing walk for this as it was the perfect thickness. I also cut a couple of pieces of rib capstrip (I’ve got a lot of it left) to glue to the false spar to support the front edge of the walk extension. The plans don’t call for it, but I’ll feel better with a little added structure there.

I can probably remove half of the capstrip on the center one. if it’s not going to provide any strength, there’s no need for the extra weight!

The plans call for using nailing strips and brads to nail down the plywood skins while the glue dries. That’s one way, but I’m thinking another way would be longer clamping strips and long clamps. One strip would hold down the aft end of the main walk and get clamped to the rear spar. One would hold both the forward end of the main walk and the aft end of the extension and get clamped to the main spar. A third would hold down the forward end of the extension… I’m not entirely sure how that one would get clamped, but since it’s 1/8″ plywood it won’t need a lot of clamping force. I’ll find a place, I’m sure.

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Aileron spar and parts fitting

Today I got the aileron spar web cut and glued in, along with the top pieces of 1/4″ spar cap. I couldn’t get to the bottom side to clamp those pieces without some significant effort, so I left those for the next session. I also got the CW32 pieces cut and sanded to fit between the rib caps. I trimmed and clamped the CW36 and CW34 pieces in place to locate the aileron torque tube, then marked the CW32 pieces for the holes that will need to be drilled for the torque tube.

The wingtip is nice and solidly in place, so now I just need to sand the blocking and trailing edge flush so I can start installing the gussets and additional bracing.

This time around I plan to NOT screw up the same way I did the first aileron, by assuming that the holes in ANY of the parts are drilled in the proper place. As I did before, I’ll index everything off of the CW34 parts, using those to locate the torque tube, and drill or sand everything else to match them. And of course I’ve already 3D printed a pair of torque tube bearing blocks for this wing. The final parts will be milled out of UHMW or something similar, not 3D printed, but these are great for getting all the holes located without the risk of messing up a flight part.

The more I use it, the more I like my little razor plane. This thing was bought back in the 70s, I think, by my father for use on R/C airplanes that we (mostly he) built in our basement, usually from scratch. It’s a plastic body with a blade that resembled a heavy duty, oversized razor blade. The key thing I found was to use light passes, and hold the plane at an angle to the wood. It’s quite effective for shaving down spruce, plywood, and even the odd bit of end grain. It’s usually quicker than sanding.

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CAW2 brackets

Over the past couple of days I’ve gotten all 14 of the CAW2 brackets shaped. I had drilled all of them already, but the ends needed to be rounded off. One end of each will be hidden inside the wing, but some will have one end exposed so I wanted them looking decent.

I designed a radius guide to help with the bandsaw and sander. It’s just a 1″ diameter disk, with a short 1/4″ button on the center of one face. Stick the button into the hole on one end of the bracket, and the guide is there to show a 1/2″ radius all the way around. My original idea was to use them to scribe a line to follow when finishing the ends. I had 3D printed a couple of them, and found it was just as easy to just leave it in place and work around the edge. Inevitably, of course, you end up nicking one so I printed up a batch of 9 more. I used 3 of them to finish off the CAW2 brackets.

Given that there are a bunch of other brackets to finish, I’ll definitely try the scribed line approach as well. Overall, though, I’m pleased with the results. I used the bandsaw to lop off the corners, then shaped the ends with a disc sander and finished them on a Scotch-Brite wheel. I had planned to paint them, but I may not. I’ve still got a batch of metal etch and Alodine (Bonderite 1201, to be precise), so if it still works I’d like to just give them a conversion coating that weighs nothing; that way they are protected from corrosion but only the exposed parts get paint. I’ll probably try a test piece to see if the Alodine still works; if not, I’ll get some self-etching primer and use that instead.

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Wing down, new bandsaw blades

Wednesday afternoon I went over and worked with Stu to get the wing down off the rack and onto the bench. I grabbed the nose ribs and, since they weren’t cut out for the false spars, took them home with me. Before I did, I carefully marked where they need to be notched.

Stu has gotten out of the cabinet business and has sold off much of his wood shop equipment. The thickness planer, jointer, band saw, edge banding machine, and some other stuff is gone. Wait — the band saw is gone? Crap, if I’d known I’d have bought it from him on condition that I could leave it where it was. Oh well. I have one at home, a cheap little 10″ tabletop model.

While cutting the notches in the nose ribs, it was immediately apparent that the saw blade was toast. I’d wanted to replace it anyway, as it’s a 1/4″ wide blade and not really great for keeping a straight line. I removed and measured it, then tossed that and the equally worn out metal blade I had for it that couldn’t make it through 1/8″ 6061. I ordered a 62″ x 3/8″ x 6 TPI wood blade, a 10 TPI wood blade, and a 1/2″ wide 24 tooth metal cutting blade.

A few days’ delay was inserted here, while dealing with another issue unrelated to the airplane..

The blades arrived over the past few days. I put the 6-tooth wood cutting blade on and got the saw adjusted’ it works great. I can cut a 1/16 slice off the end of a 2×2. I think I still need to get the saw table squared up a little better with the blade before trying to do any re-sawing, but it’s close enough for the time being. The metal cutting blade slides through that 6061 like butter, so I’ll be able to finish off the AL fittings for the wing and get the tubing cut for the bushings. Then I can order the bolts I need and get the fittings installed.

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Returning to work

It’s been a bit since my last update here. In the past couple of weeks we took a nice cruise vacation, and I developed a pretty severe case of bronchitis. It’s possible these two things are not unrelated; one of the risks you take to get a little Caribbean sun and salt air in the middle of winter, I guess!

I’ve been working to get the leading edge of the aileron wrapped with plywood. Honestly, at this point I can understand how someone would make the decision to scrap an aileron and start from scratch. I don’t think I’ll go quite that far, but there have been challenges. I’m adding to my “lessons learned” for the next three ailerons, that’s for sure. Part of it is just developing a process to get the ply to wrap over the pretty sharply curved top surface. This part I solved with a couple pieces of Styrofoam and some dumbbells, to effectively clamp the aileron to the bench with the ply trapped underneath. That should hopefully take care of the upper portion. The bottom edge of the top piece of ply isn’t yet glued to the structure, so I’ll have to figure that out today.

I’m really looking forward to building the next wing. I’ve learned so much while building this one that I’m pretty sure the next will take a lot less time, although I’ll have to figure out the wing walk on the next one. I talked to a guy building an RS-80 Tiger Moth the other day. He told me about improvements he’s made to his wing walk to avoid seeing the wing deflect when someone steps onto it. I’m not sure how much I’ll be able to do on mine, but he’s using carbon fiber in a substantial number of places on his build. Honestly, the wing walk is one area where I was thinking I would need to beef things up a little anyway… if you’ve met me you’ll understand why.

But, of course the devil is in the details. Every time I think I’m almost finished with this wing I am reminded of all the detail work that has yet to be done. I need to cut and install all of the bushings for the bolts; finish cutting, shaping, and drilling the various aluminum mounting brackets; cut and finish the scallops in the leading edge plywood; figure out and build the transition from leading edge to wingtip bow (most likely foam)… there’s a lot of stuff left to do, but fortunately it’s really only a few days’ work.